ever here of a product called no wet out of the states, im using it in SA and i find its amazing for valeting. What do u think
Never heard of it I'm afraid!
I'll keep an eye out for it.
Do you know if the Fiat coupe has a clear coat on it or if it is a thick base coat?
The new Fiat coupes will most likely have a clear coat.
Hello!
My car is a 1988 Volvo 240 DL SW.
A bit faded, but a nice silver color. Used to be.
Will your system work on it?
It should do!
Despite the age of your car, even back then metalic colours had a clear coat which may make things easier. The only problem may be that the clear coat has had 18 years to fully cure, so it may be very, very hard. It would be very interesting to see. We did a Golf GTI not so long ago that was almost as old as this. Because the paint was so hard it was a lot of work and we had trouble removing all the scratches... frankly because it was taking so long and cars of this age don't really warrant spending the time and money on because of their value, but it would have been possible if we had carried on. We certainly made it shiny, even if we couldn't get the paintwork perfect. I see no reason why we couldn't do the same for your car.
Hi, i was wandering what products you recommend in trying to remove cement from the bonnet of my Peugeout 206 and where i could buy it from please? I recently parked it in a car park where cement dust had gathered. It since rained and the cement has caused a few streaking marks down the bonnet and onto the bumper. Would be very grateful on help with where to find products to remove it please. Im based in Manchester so would be difficult getting down to see you. Thanks.
I have answered your question over at the Car Care Forum, which I thought a suitable place for it. http://www.carcareforum.co.uk/vi...ewtopic.php?
t=2
HELP, need advise, paint fading on my platnium sc300 Lexus. Polishing compound and rubbing compound has been used and still it keeps coming back. what can I do?
It sounds like ultraviolet light is causing your paintwork to fade. So the only solution I can suggest is that you look for product that offers UV protection.
There are plenty of products available, but Im not in a position to judge their effectiveness... so it's probably best just to ask your local dealer or retailer what they recommend.
Hi there,
Please can you recommend the stages of valeting a car. i have just purchased a polishing mop. and would very much like to get the same finish, which i have seen on your site , by the man with the funny earmuffs .I have a 2003 audi TT. It is a dark Moro Blue. At one stage he was trying differen products out before he found the most approprieate one. I have a vast aray of Autoglym products at my disposal if they are any good?Please help!
Get over to www.carcareforum.co.uk as this is a better place to hold a discussion... and there we can talk about it. I'll need to know what kind of machine you are using, what size and makes of pads you use. From there I'll make a few recommendations and tell you where you can buy them.
Hi There
I have a '86 Golf GTi in white that has had the misfortune of spending the last 2 years in the sun and rain at the police pound after it was stolen from me (yes, it took them that long to get hold of me!). It has a few rust spots (exposes metal abt 1mm in diameter with surrounding stains about 1cm) and the paint is signifantly faded all over, leaving a powdery white residue on your fingers when you rub it. Any suggestions? Can i get away with a treatment or is a re-spray the only option?
Thanks in advance!
I know exactly how you feel... really I do!
I have a similar vintage Golf GTD in white and it too has begun to get little rust spots.
Now, as for the faded white paintwork, that is no problem, it will easily buff off. In fact, if you go over it enough times with T-cut it will remove it (although thats a lot of elbow grease).
However, the rust spots are a whole other story. The summer before last I went around mine, I ground them out, applied an etch primer, filled them, primed them, painted them... I ended up respraying the bottom panel of all four doors. By last summer about a third of them were back again + a few new ones.
I'm now looking at having the bottom half of the car repainted. It really is a bodyshop job which requires lots of prep to ensure they are gone for good.
The thing is, does the value of the car warrant it? My car is now listed as a classic by my insurance company, and I actually have it on classic car insurance. But it's still not a very high value vehicle and bodyshop repairs can be expensive. Luckily, I do have a tame painter whoc can do it for me at a very reasonable rate.
It may be worth a trip to a body shop to ask them what they thing, they should also be able to buff the car up for you too.
Thanks for that Danny - I think I'll def. go the buffing route for now. As for the value, you may have a point - it's not worth much at the moment (except sentimentally, of course) plus I need to get it running again after all that time standing outside...I'll let you know how things turn out
Thanks again for the advice
Hi
I have a 1989 E30 BMW 3 series in red. The paintwork is actually in quite reasonable condition (it apparently got double coated when new) with not to much fading for a car of this colour and age (except for the red plastic trim)- though it is obvious it has not been regularly polished before i owned it. However after seeing the results on your red golf Gti i was stunned! I have tried various different polishes on my car to liven up the paintwork but have yet to find something that makes a 'visible' difference. What would you recommend? (i am not using a mechanical buffer - just my arms!) I would like to get it looking shinny ready for the summer.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
It's not so much the product, it's a question of doing little and often. I'm sure you have probably already used AutoGlym's Super Resin Polish? This has a chemical polish in it that will take off some of the oxidization every time you use it. The alternative would be something like this http://www.valetshop.co.uk/categ...aler-
polish.htm
or this:
http://www.valetshop.co.uk/categ...easy-
polish.htm
Both really good products, the former has some physical cut, the latter is another polish with chemical cut (don't ask me how chemical cut works!).
Using anything like this on a regular basis will gradually bring the paint back.
Thanks Danny
Yeah ive got some autoglym super resin polish, ill try using it more regularly,
One last quick point- when it comes to applying the polish, is there any hard and fast rule for how long you should leave it before buffing to get the best results? Im always worried of leaving it too long ( having had a bad experience with a cheap product on a previous car ).
Thanks
There is no real advantage to leaving it on for any period of time. once it has dried, then you can take it off.
It's easier if you avoid doing this in direct sunlight but there are no hard and fast rules. We use good quality products (We use AutoSmart protective sealer polish) and work inside - sometimes our guys will leave the stuff on overnight and it's okay to take off next morning.
I have just recently bought a 4 year old smoke grey MG and washed it for the first time using Meguiars gold class shampoo and their liquid wax polish. However I noticed afterwards on a small section on the door panel, the paintwork was very dull and slightly rough to the touch. I'm not sure whether the polish I used caused it (do you think that is likely?) or whether it was like that before and I hadn't noticed. . . Do you know whether it can be easily recitified and how much would it be to fix and blend into the surrounding more shiny paintwork?) Thanks
No, I doubt it was you. It was more likely the previous owner using a more abrasive product to remove a light scratch or bird muck.
It should be easy enough to buff out if this is the case.
The only other thing that it might be is if somebody has already buffed through the clear-coat, but I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that this isn't the case.
Thanks Danny, the guy that I bought it off was a small part time dealer and he said that it had been sanded, so maybe he has gone too far in that area. If this is the case, is the only option to get the whole door panel resprayed as the polishing doesn't seem to have had any effect, I just noticed two minor spots of lacquer which I'm guessing may have been the reminants of the previous clear top coat. (yikes!) Just not sure what to do as don't want to make it any worse.
Well... you could send me a picture, I'll see if it has gone through.
Otherwise, I can recommend a very good bodyshop in our area which doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
i have a 2006 A4 cabriolet in metallic black. its paintwork is covered with the tiny little circular scratches you mention on your webpage. somebody told me that 'hand glaze' would be worth trying before going for professional help. what do you think?
Hand Glaze? I'm sure there are better products than this for the job.
I'm aware of a product by 3M called hand glaze -- it is just a glaze, a showroom product for making a car look glossy. These type of products are usually just oily wet-look stuff that do nothing to the paintwork. It may hide your problem until the product evaporates in a couple of days, but can't possibly see how it would fix it.
There are products that do help to hide swirl marks, and I would think any of them would last longer than a glaze product, and of course, this is an option which is much cheaper than paintwork correction. But they do just hide the problem and rely on re-application. While this suits most people, there are some who will want the problem corrected, especially on high-end cars.
thanks danny
just out of interest what is the cost of correcting painwork for these kind of things
What were the other products you were thinking of? I tried the glaze as it was already on order and the effect was very temporary
thanks
The product I am thinking of specifically is AutoGlym's Ultra Deep Shine.
I remember AutoGlym coming around to demonstrate the trade version, and them saying it was perfect for dealerships selling used cars because it hid all scratches and made cars look new.
...it doesn't hide all the scratches, but it does make them far less noticeable.
We also had a demonstration of a Canadian product that really does hide scratches permanently... amazing stuff. Unfortunately, it's flammable to the point of being explosive, making the cost import prohibitive. But I digress.
Try Ultra Deep Shine and see how you get on. There are a number of options regarding buffing the paintwork meaning the price can vary quite considerably.
Hi,
Need some advice, just had a panel repaired on my 1996 MGF, the problem is the repaired panel now looks like new and the surrounding panel look knackered. Is there anything you can do to correct this?
Many Thanks
Will
Yes there is a good chance we can.
I should think that if we buff the rest of the car, it will make the other panels shiny and new looking.
I can't guarantee that it will solve the problem 100% because I don't know how good the repaired panel was or if they got a good colour match, but at the very least it will help greatly.
It may be the case that you don't need to go the full whack, it's probably that our 'two stage buff' will be enough to get the results you are looking for.
Hi,
thanks for the prompt reply regards my Honda. But the thing that worries me about having the car professionaly cleaned is i had my van rear door scratches buffed out. It looked great for a couple of weeks then faded badly. I had dificulty selling the vehicle because of this. Idont mind you restoring the car as long as i dont get a repeat performance like with the van.
yours,
dave
That's strange! But it can be explained.
Most cars these days have clear-over-base paintwork, but many vans still use solid base colours with no lacquer.
My guess is that when the doors were buffed, they didn't wax or seal them, leaving exposed paintwork which faded quickly... although I have to say, a couple of weeks is very quick for something to fade.
The clear-coat on a car's paintwork reduces fading by a lot... not completely which is why you still see some red Hondas that have gone a bit pink.
Regardless, we will always replace any protection removed by buffing, and we normally recommend having a paint sealant.
Hi there, i have just purchased a vw Passat in metalic silver. it has quite a few small but long scratches down the doors from branches/bushes whilst driving along. what would be the best solution to get these out? I have tried regular polish but the scratches are just to deep.
Many Thanks, Adam
hello
awesome,i have a 2001 ford f150 harley davidson truck which is all black,i meticulously care for it and at the minute are using the mothers carumba waxes,it looks awesome in evening light but if the sun shines on it you can see all the swirl marks and to be honest it really annoys the life out of me to the point i think about selling it cos in my eyes it is not mint,would i benefit from a professional polish or flat and polish
thank you andy
You shouldn't need to flat and polish it -- he paint they put on cars these days doesn't go on thick enough to do that.
but professional machine polish should get rid of most of the swirl marks.
By the way, many waxes will make the swirl marks look worse, so you could try changing brand.
help i brought a nova which has been heavily laquer i beleve .it has a orange peel effect can u fix this if so how much
hi guys
recently got wing and bonnet resprayed on a 97 (jap import) celica, (white 050) and looks a lot fresher than the rest of the car now. Is there a way of 'blending' or 'polishing' to an almost decent colour match? i have heard most paint now is 'water based' rather than 'cellulose' and think i've now got a mixture of the two. any information would be greatly appreciated.
thank you
ian
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