I learned something new. I have NEVER heard of stabstitching. Very neat.
I have never heard of hand stitching in a zip! I am not sure if my stitches would hold...lol. I have a CS pants pattern - must check it out.
Great post, Erica, so informative! Can't wait to see the finished pants.
Wow no mention of Martin Luther King Day..
Dear Anonymous:
I think you're a PUNK and a COWARD for hiding behind the veil of anonymity. I live in Birmingham, Alabama. Announcing that it's MLK Day is like saying "Happy Sunday"... something that is obvious and observed on the daily. This environment is all about "living The Dream"! Since you obviously haven't a clue as to who I am, it's best you find another site to lurk. You've been BANNED!
P.S. This domain is paid for by ME! I direct the flow of the blog post!
I love hand-stitching and find that basting, etc. usually speeds up my sewing because it secures everything more accurately than pins and prevents me from making errors. I'm glad to see that hand-sewing works for fly fronts. I'll have to remember to re-read your post when I make my next pair of pants.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around zipper const when all pieces aren't cuton. This would be the next step but I'm just not there yet. So interesting! Thanks for taking the time to show your process.
I'll never trust my hands enough to perform such a work. It's amazing and I'm glad it works well with your pants.
The white lines on the fabric is that hand basting with thread and a needle or did you use a pencil to make the markings.
Funny, this is the second quilting technique you've mentioned in making these pants. It's common in quilting to mark seamlines for hand-piecing, and stab-stitching is also used. When I had carpal tunnel I stab-stitched my quilting because it's easier on the wrist. Also, stab-stitching is sometimes used when you make a quilt out something heavy like denim or corduroy.
I had no idea that these techniques came from couture sewing. Just think I'm a couturier and didn't know it! -lol-
Paving the way again for us home sewers Erica.... I was hoping you had a pic showing this part of your description 'I used 1/4" wide twill tape to stay the foldlines.' I have heard this in patterns but was hoping for a visual, (always better). Nice pattern by the way.
Jesus why are people such f. assholes???!!!!!!
Erica , my sincere apologies for ranting on your blog. Anomynous you have zero originality, zero credibility, zero imagination and zero taste. What do you have to offer in this world, really?
BTW, am blown away by your couture. can't wait to keep following.
Erica,
Big ups to you for calling anonymous out! I enjoy reading your blog, very informative. Love the idea of tackling couture techniques. I can't wait to see the finished project, especially the fit. Your pieces always fit beautifully and that distinguishes them from most sewing enthusiasts.
Erica:
Coming out of "lurkdom" to say -- please know that for every weirdo out there, there are people totally with you. And not only did you handle "Anonymous" well, you did it with panache! I love reading your blog. Thank you for spending the time & effort on it. It's a fun, informative, and inspiring read.
Out of curiosity, did you wax the thread? I have found it helps a lot w/ handsewing zippers!!!!!
@ michelleH:
No I didn't.
Outstanding work, Erica! I find this series of articles on couture pants extremely interesting!
Another day of reasons to start these pants! I too was dubious about a handstitched zipper application when I read the instructions, but am willing to try. The pants are looking great.
BTW- some people are idiots! Feel assured that the rest of us love you and your blog.
Erica, I just the punk can't read either. This blog is about SEWING. The nerve.
I love how you're breaking things down. When I make my pants, I'm going to attempt these methods.
BTW, I typed about you on my blog. I hope you don't mind. Some people are funny about that.
@ Connie:
Thanks a lot!
@ Donna:
Not a problem. I'll be checking your site out. I love new blogs!
Late to the party, but I love putting in a hand stitched zipper for exactly the reason you stated: you have more control when you hand stitch. Your pants are coming beautifully!
The pants are coming along beautifully. Even if you choose not to do all your pants totally couture, the ability to do it is the freedom to pick and choose the best method for the project. There is something very satisfying about handwork.
I had to smile when I read this, about hand picking the fly topstitching.
You'd never guess one of the odd notions/tools that sits on my table side of the sewing machine - a pair of hemostats. (old timers & kids will know these as roach clips), which are very useful for pulling the needle through tightly woven heavy layers of fabric. BTW, I've not found couture techniques to be particularly difficult, so much as time consuming.
To me, couture techniques generally represent the antithesis of Quick sewing.
Marji,
That's what I've come to appreciate... the joy of "Slow Sewing".
I'm trying to incorporate more "couture techniques" into my sewing, too. I'm glad you are posting about it. You lead, I'll follow! LOL
You are doing a great job!I really don't trust my handsewing to put a zipper in and hoping that it don't come out while I am wearing them.
I'm sew confused!
HOW do you do the thread tracing? More specificall, how do you know where to PUT the stitches? Do you tear the pattern away after you've made the stitches on top of the pattern markings? Also, I wish you weren't using black fabric so that that zipper was/is easier to see, but it is awsome fo seeing the thread tracing!
BTW, what type of fabric are you using?
Oh, please don't take the comment about the fabric color and zipper application as criticisim. It was just me wishing out loud.
@ designdreamer:
I agree... it is almost impossible to photograph something black and show the details. For the thread tracing... you outline first in chalk. For example, I know that my seam allowance will be 5/8", so I outlined in chalk then thread traced. I hope that makes sense.
When I made my daughter's dress for her junior prom, I sewed the zipper in by hand. I used a backstitch and not a stab stitch. It really wasn't that difficult. I'm glad your posting about your couture techniques. I'm encouraged to use more of these techniques in all my sewing.
I remember when I made my skirt, I thought it would be much easier to do by hand. -lol- As a quilter, I'm far more secure with hand-sewing than I am with a machine. I dunno, something about a machine takes the relaxation out of it for me. That's why I've never been into machine quilting or piecing. There's just something organic and life-affirming about sitting with nothing but your own thoughts while you stitch.
Hey Erica,
I came by to say I really enjoyed your recent post but it seems to have been deleted. I wish I knew what blogs you were talking about!
BTW, I feel like I must comment on the anonymous jackass' comments- how incredibly sad that ignorant fools still exist in this world. Even worse that they figured out how to use a computer.
Hi Nikki:
Writing can be very cathartic. Once the ranting and venting is over, no need to let the negativity linger.
Iam sewing along with you the same style pant, but a self drafted pattern, I am very petite. What fabric are you using? What kind of zip did you use?
I love getting your step by step posts, keeps the desire to make a top quality pant. This blog puts the real enjoyment in sewing for me. You are always creating something very enjoyable to sew and wear. Many thanks.
Susan
Hi Susan,
I am using a wool crepe that has a small amount of stretch. I used a regular YKK zipper.
Thanks for the information. Lot's of fun and sewing help.
Hi Erika, your posts are always inspiring, informative, and highly enjoyable. I came out of the woodwork to give you props for your grace and style in handling rude comments. But more so for your talent and inner loveliness comes out in your work, which I truly find amazing! Thanks for having the generosity to share!
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