sorry I can't help with Puerto Rico but Happy Birthday and congrats on a pending adventure!
I went to Puerto Rico last March for the first time and the weather was unbelieveable for the 4 days I was there, so I wish you the same fortune.
My suggestions will not be unique, I am sure, but the beaches along San Juan & Carolina, while gorgeous, have very strong waves and undertows so that might not be the best for the kids - and that is the most "touristy" area. I assume that is where you're flying into? The south side of the island has nearly deserted beaches where the water is very gentle, perfect for playing children - but it's a very long ride from San Juan across the island.
Definitely do El Yunque, the rainforest - I bet Juney will love it - but it's a lot of walking. Old San Juan is also very beautiful, I recommend touring the old Fort built into the hillside, it is interesting and offers surprising vantages in little crevices and cubbies that the kids might like. Again, lots of walking though - and can get pretty hot, make sure you're all lathered up with sunblock!
The best authentic Puerto Rican fare I had during my trip was at a roadside cart along the southern coast - pinchos, I think they call the food - all grilled meats on a stick, served with pigeon peas and plaintains - but a close second was some hole-in-the-wall place in San Juan almost across from the Marriott Stellaris. Sorry I don't know the name.
Have a wonderful trip, getting a little sun during the bleak northern winter is heavenly.
We took our 2 children to Puerto Rico in January 2007, and the sheer wonderfulness of that trip was an unexpected surprise. We limited ourselves to the San Juan area and took day trips from there, so my expertise is limited, but I will share what I know. Our favorite beach was Luquillo, about an hour from San Juan, and it had amenities superior to any east coach beach we've visited. It was definitely a family-oriented area. Old San Juan is beautiful, and the kids should love the fort at El Morro. We drove to El Yunque, the rainforest, where there is a lovely small education center and hikes are available. Overall, we found the people very kind and helpful, and I would return to Puerto Rico in a heartbeat. If you're interested, my photos from that trip are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmi...57594455779395/
. Happy birthday, and I hope your trip will be as great as ours was.
I'm afraid I can't help either but that sounds like a fantastic birthday present! I love having an adventure to plan - we're in the very early stages of planning a US/Canadian road trip for this summer - I have your road trip and San Francisco posts bookmarked. Good luck getting the information you need.
Oh! I forgot another recommendation - you have to keep the kids up pretty late to do it, but there is a phosphorescent bay called La Parguera near Lajas, on the southwest coast - you take a little open-air glass-bottomed boat out into the darkness to see this lagoon where the dinoflagellate organisms sparkle when disturbed - it is one of the few places in the world to see it. Pretty cool.
It is really not difficult to get to Vieques, and it is definitely worth the trip. You can hop a small plane from the San Juan airport (takes less than an hour and is a really fun experience in itself). Rent a car and one of the many beautiful (and very inexpensive) villas. The beaches are beautiful and uncrowded, and there are really cool old military tanks stuck in the sand. There are free- roaming horses all over the island, great little restaurants and a few gourmet markets to buy supplies for cooking at your villa. AND an amazing bioluminescent bay. Definitely consider it.
unfortunately I once worked at a law firm that represented helicopter and small plane manufacturers. thus, I do not ride in small planes or helicopters.
it does sound very tempting though.
No help with the trip planning I'm afraid, but I do work downtown, so sign me up for pet duty.
Happy birthday, and enjoy your trip!
What a great gift! This winter is killing me/us, too.
Puerto Rico is really awesome. The street shopping is great, I would use a backpack for the boy becuase as others mentioned its a lot of walking. Driving isnt really an option downtown. There is a great art gallery in town as well but I can't remember it's name.
El Morro is awesome. The vantage points overlooking the water and an old cemetery- just amazing.
I would seek out the hole in the wall places to eat. Go down the alley and see what is there. We found a fantastic place that way (no idea what it was called 8 years later.)
Oh, and the Pina Colada was invented there so you HAVE to have a few of those.
I can't wait to read about this adventure! I know you will have a great time.
Vieques really is lovely. You can take a ferry from Fajardo, which is basically as far away from San Juan as Detroit is from Toledo. So, you are definitely capable of taking on the challenge, if not necessarily up for it after a flight.
I went to Vieques in February in college (we were the only college students on the island), and it was gorgeous, the people were friendly, the beaches were empty and nice.
There are good times to be had all over the island though.
I also rented a house on the beach on the southern coast (I don't remember exactly where), and all of our neighbors were Puerto ricans on vacation, fishing, etc. It was fabulous and rustic, with a really intense riptide. So, be careful.
The bioluminescent bays. Really magical.
Did I miss something? Who's not going on the trip? She only gave you three tickets, right? Aren't there four of you???
I'm confused!!
My trip to San Juan coincided with my first and worst case of strep throat ever (started the moment I landed). Most of the trip I was holed up in my room wishing death would take me out of my misery, but I did enjoy the beaches down south, Old San Juan, and just walking around the town. What I enjoyed most was the $4 bag of antibiotics bought over the counter at a local pharmacy =)
For a nice, secluded, beach hotel, I highly recommend staying at Copamarina Beach Resort & Spa (http://www.copamarina.com/). It’s about a two hour drive from San Juan.
You also have to check out the bioluminescent bay (http://www.biobay.com/) at Vieques Island.
I was in Puerto Rico recently and ate at a fabulous restaurant - La Fonda del Jibarito, (280 Calle Sol, 787-725-8375). They serve traditional home cooking known as "Comida Criolla". It's a really excellent and reasonably priced family owned place frequented by the locals.
Kate: babies don't need tickets for domestic travel until age 2. Gram flies free!
I was thinking of you while I was driving from Houghton to Calumet last week, enroute to the inlaws house (I spent the day couped up in the coffee shop with high-speed Internet, since the Lake Superior lakeshore is beautiful but severely lacking in cell phone reception and Internet coverage), wondering if you at all ever regretted leaving the great state of California (well, great in some people's minds--I was born there, so will always love it, even if Seattle is now home), especially as it was -11F as I drove... I guess your post answers my question.
So. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!! And even happier journies ahead! I've never been to Puerto Rico, but the internets won't let you down.
We lived in PR for a year and a half. Getting from the north to the south is very easy--there's an expressway!
Next to Old San Juan, my favorite town was Ponce. It felt almost like visiting some historic towns in New Mexico.
Oh, and in Old San Juan, take Juney to the Butterfly People Museum, 257 Calle de la Cruz. http://www.butterflypeople.com/
a...terfly_tour.htm
"couldn't I at least be 32 for five years like Jennifer Aniston?"
dear god, i nearly choked on my orange juice.
anyway, i've never been to puerto rico, so no advice here. but happy birthday, and good luck with your planning.
when i was in hanoi, i was happy to see a dutch family with two children under the age of 4.
Oh right! I knew my pregnant brain was missing something important! I forgot about the babies fly free rule! Thanks, Wood, for some reason it was really bothering me worrying about who was not going on the trip! (no option seemed very good!)
Enjoy the trip - it sounds wonderful!
My husband and I went to PR exactly a year ago for our "babymoon," and we had a great time. If nothing else, it's nice to see a beach and some sunshine in the dead of winter -- and I live in Atlanta, so I can't even imagine the weather you're used to.
You've already gotten some great recommendations, but I'll throw in my two cents. We stayed in San Juan (Isla Verde) and rented a car (for very cheap) for a day trip to El Yunque, which was awesome. We spent a few hours there that morning, and on our way back, we hit Luquillo Beach (very family-friendly). Also, just before (or after, depending on which direction you come from) you reach the Luquillo exit, there's a row of food stands lining the highway. You can't miss them. Food Stand #2 (aka La Parrilla) was awesome -- definitely our best meal of the trip (though we also had some excellent Mofungo in Old San Juan). We loved walking around Old San Juan and El Morro -- it's a beautiful walking city, but not exactly convenient to get to. I don't suggest trying to drive/park in the city, so unless you stay at a hotel in OSJ, you'll have to take a cab. Oh -- and we were dying to check out the bioluminescent bay, but they have very strict rules against pregnant women kayaking. You may want to check on their rules re: kiddos.
Happy birthday! I'm sure y'all will have a great time -- what an awesome gift!
I would plan to spend at least one or two nights in Old San Juan, depending on what time of day you arrive. Consider either the Hotel Convento ($$$) or the Gallery Inn ($$). Very cool atmosphere, although possibly challenging with a walking baby. But they do have talking parrots. And plan to spend a few hours watching kites fly at the fort.
Then I would go to the beach, either drive south or go to Vieques. And I would stay in one place and not try and see everything, but just enjoy the sun and sand.
Happy birthday!
We did Vieques with young kids.... and though it was a slog of a day, it was well-worth it. We stayed at the very cheap but very funky La Finca, and we rented the little house, and we loved it. Straight down to the tarantulas on the porch. Gram will sleep, and Juniper will like the ferry, and the beaches will be among the most beautiful you'll ever see. JUST DO IT!
If you do take the ferry to Vieques, make sure you explain to Juney that the ferries are boats. Spell it to her if she's starting to grasp letters and that will help. Our youngest nearly threw a fit when she realized the FAIRIES weren't going to fly up to the boat and take us for a ride. She's now 8 and we tease her mercilessly. 
Happy Birthday. You'll love Puerto Rico. Bypass San Juan and head west to Rincon. Gorgeous beaches, charming town. Nice people. It's been several years, but last time I went I stayed at Villa Antonio. Lots of surfers, but did not see lots of college kids.
Hotel El Convento--converted convent--beautiful, middle of Old San Juan, and great free wine hour.
We rented a car from Avis (cheap, took the insurance, and had no problems finding our way around).
Fajardo (quick drive from San Juan)--Fajardo Inn is nothing fancy but can't beat their rates. Has big pool, playground, and little mini golf area. Best part is it's an easy drive to beaches, other resorts etc. Fajardo also has a nearby bioluminescent bay which is awesome and not as out of the way as Vieques (you can kayak or take small motorboat tour out to bay). Farjardo has some great public beaches.
Also in Fajardo is the El Conquistador Resort. Stay here or just take advantage of the amenities.
I'm sure you'll have a fabulous time anywhere you visit.
Vieques is fabulous. There is also a ferry.
we've only ever used pr as a stop-over to further destinations (we once saw an old pan am plane on the runway and thought we had flown through a space-time continuum), but it was our next destination (maybe in the fall?) b/c we too are weary from weather and kids and life. i'm not going to lie to you- i'll be taking notes from your readers and you guys when you get back!
happy bday, jim, from your fellow 1977 aquarian. enjoy that wonderful gift! (i rec'd a new winter jacket, requested and loved, but still...i just feel like an old mom now)
i will say, wood, getting a trip to the caribbean remains my most favorite birthday gift of all time, nicely done!
Jim
My friends Michelle and Erik and their daughter Clara live in Puerto Rico when they're not up in Northern Michigan. Very nice folks and I'm sure they could direct you to some kid friendly adventures. Michelle is the pilates guru and Erik is the surf dude.
http://ultimateinnercore.com/ultimate
Fun travels and will make for amazing pics!
Linda
ps - Happy Birthday to a fellow Aquarian. My husband treated me to a night in Detroit, and you get a family trip to Puerto Rico. Well done Wood! (going to have to talk to my honey about this...)
Your comment about small planes and helicopters cracked me up and also cemented my decision to continue to avoid them. I trust Jim! Have a great time and happy birthday!
We went last year before Christmas. I wrote about it here (http://elliottjournal.typepad.com/
chitown2beantown/2008/01/thoughts-on-vac.html), with some links to some of the stuff we did. Best things were just wandering around the gardens in Old San Juan, going to the national gallery, and kayaking at night in the bioluminescent bay in Vieques (amazing where the bay opens up to the ocean, with the stars overhead). A couple younger children were on the kayak trip, but I don't know about taking a toddler. Plus we had to (got to) ride in the back of a pick-up to get out there. The beaches are amazing, but be careful since there are so few people around. My brother went a month later and they ended up dragging in and resuscitating someone's wife who had gone out too far. The EMTs that day were a slow to the scene. Luckily my brother and friends were surfers, and knew CPR. I'm glad we experienced Vieques, and I didn't find it hard at all to get over there (rent a car, drive, park, take the ferry over). But, we didn't want to spend money to rent a car on the island, and biking around in the heat was a challenge. Probably not an option with kids. If I went back with young kids, I'd probably stay on the mainland and head south or west, and just wander more. The mountains idea sounds lovely.
You will have a great trip - Puerto Rico is awesome! It's a gem of an island with great landscape diversity. Suggest not spending much time in San Juan, there is beauty throughout the island. Hope you are carnivores, otherwise you may have a challenging culinary experience. A few of my loves: Spend a night or two at Hotel Casa Grande in Utuado - a lovely mountain inn (run by a former New York lawyer) in a really magical setting. Not sure if it is kid-friendly. Good to plan a stay there along with a visit to the observatory in Arecibo. The bioluminescent bay in Vieques is really a must-see, sadly the one in Parguera has been ruined by tourism. Try to see Cabo Rojo at sunset. The Copamarina in Guanica is a great little resort that I imagine would be great for travel with children if you want a few relaxed days of an all-inclusive experience.
Cleaning out my home office just yesterday I came across an old notebook in which I had written "I just turned 32 and I still don't know what I want to be when I grow up." That was 20 years ago. Weird. You'll be thinking about a plate of shrimp ...
My girlfriend and I tend to plan our travel itinerary around food. That being said, I have never been to puerto rico, but I have watched the episode of No Reservations in which Anthony Bourdain visited the island. Many of the places he went to seemed touristy and places that one would come upon eventually if you went to the beach or whatever. However, the program did feature a trip to Lechonera Los Pino, a restaurant that featured a seriously giant pig roast in which they carve off requested cuts with a machete. It looked effeing awesome. I've thought about making a special trip to PR just to go there. This is the address and phone number: Address: Barrio Guavate, Carr. 184, Km. 27.7, Cayey
Phone: (787) 286-1917. Have fun when you go, and sorry if this suggestion doesn't pass the kid-friendly test. Happy B-day!
I was only in San Juan for a day, but I would suggest walking around Old San Juan and checking out the cemeteries. Also get some food of the street.
in list form:
1. El Yunque, for sure.
2. there will be deliciously crappy fried food everywhere. eat some.
3. BACARDI FACTORY. That is all. Juney will love it, trust me
4. I liked El Morro (fort) ... nice cemetery/ ocean/ big open grassy space where kids can run around. Plus, history.
5. There is a Hyatt (or maybe Hilton?) that does iguana feedings. There are iguanas everywhere on the streets around there. BIG ones. If you plan to go see them you should maybe prep Juniper with some stories about nice friendly iguanas and show her a picture or two.
6. I've heard the bioluminescent bay is good but didn't do it myself.
that's all...
ps. picture of iguana:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.ph...0a7&
id=13301750
There's this place called Boqueron (Bocaron?). I don't know if it exists anymore but basically in the quasi-socialist past they made these cabins for the ordinary people that went for a song. Anyone can stay there, right on the beach.
Phosphorescent water at night. It's like magic. Outdoor showers, little simple cabins.
But be sure to go to the mountains also.
I don't know if it will be deserted anymore but it was deserted when I went there as a child. I met one woman who taught me to make a cup out of a coke can--which is a good skill I have yet to utilize.
I'm so happy you are going there! The Caribbean can't be matched for beauty.
I found info about the cabins. I think this should appeal to the Dutch thrift thing:
http://www.enjoypuertorico.com/
w...eretostay.shtml
I should mention that I stayed there as a child. Yipes! More than 25 years ago...
Child friendly doesn't even begin to describe those cabins. It was like paradise for a kid who can rough it a bit. People in PR and everywhere in the Caribbean are crazy for kids. We forced this poor lifeguard to catch basically every jellyfish he saw in the vicinity so that we could swim without fear...my dad lost his wallet and some guy found it and gave it back to him with all his money in it (Unusual story...we were poor then too so this was a big deal...but there is crime there, like everywhere. But still!)
I learned to eat a whole fish, fried, with the head and all. I hope Junie will have that kind of experience.
I missed a KISS concert that all my friends went to. I admit I was a bit annoyed at the time (I was in 3rd grade). Damn, what is paradise to an 8 year old when her friends got to see KISS?
Never been, but my sister lives there. Her "drag the tourist/friend stops" are: rain forest, bioluminescent bay - as mentioned, but it will be jelly season this time of year, beaches on the southwest side, pork in Cayey, fish in Joyuda (west side)...she also says don't bother getting excited about shopping (ha) - since they now have sales tax.
and this is my first reply ever to your blog - I love it!
I think the very best thing you could do is take ME!!!
I have wanted to go FOREVER!!!! I hope to make it in the next 5 yrs, enjoy your time there!
Have to tell you since no one else mentioned it: Go to Culebra. Vieques is nice, but Flamingo beach on Culebra is literally one of the prettiest beaches I've ever been to. I lived in Puerto Rico for four years, have been to most Caribbean islands and Zanzibar, and this is still one of my all time favorite places. You won't get quite the sense of remoteness you get on Vieques, but you do defintely get quite a bit compared to the main island. The beach is very much worth the trip. Crystal clear water, areas with calm and wavy water, good snorkeling, fine white sand sand. Catch the ferry from Fajardo, I believe. If the kids get motion sick, give them a bit of dramamine in advance--the ferry can be rough. If I remember right, the faster ones are better, and sitting on the upper deck where you get the breeze makes a big difference. The ferry ride to Culebra is, I believe, shorter than the one to Vieques. There are also charter options if you want to explore the other little islands around, and those islands are cool, but the ferry is quite cheap. Put way too much sunscreen on everyone, and often. Carribean sun gave me the worst sunburns I've ever had. Go on a weekday, take the early ferry, and you may get a big swath of beach to yourself. I've had Puerto Rican friends tell me they don't use the beaches in winter because it's cold. You catch a taxi (for cheap) to the beach from the ferry dock, and then back again. There's food stands, but picnics are easy too.
If you do go on the main island and are looking for cheap fun, the best of the public beaches on the north of the island is indeed Luquillo beach. Big and often pretty empty. There's also a bunch of food stands which get sketchy and bar like at night but are quite pleasant into the early evening, all of which serve cheap street food. DEFINITELY get platanos and amarillos. Mofongo is good, too. (all of these are variations on fried plantains, mofongo is stuffed with meat). El Yunque is very pretty, but the main trails are *quite* touristy. You may have better luck looking at some of the others.
The west of the island is worth exploring, though I've not done so. My friends who grew up on the island all do vacation type things there.
If you want to pretend like you're rich and fancy, you can use the amenities at the Westin Rio Mar (ie, beautiful beaches with (!!) hammocks between palm trees and two nice pools, one with waterslide) and so long as you're not obnoxious about it and look either touristy or reasonably respectable, I've never seen anyone even ask if you're really a guest. We used to go all the time when my dad was stationed at Roosey Roads and tell them we were coming for lunch at one of the restaurants. You just have to pay to park (though there may be a lot you can use for free at the far end of the beach--keep following the road past the usual lot under the hotel and the staff lot, I think). It might spark questions to bring in more than small snacks (stuff for the little one wouldn't be weird, though) but I dunno.
Good luck--it's a fun place to visit!
comment re: K studio
Incidentally, Shelly Klein has a really cool house. Grace of design*sponge spotlighted it here:
http://www.designspongeonline.com/2007/02/sneak-
peekk-studio.html
p.s. And of course, happy birthday!
If Carrie needs back-up, sign me up for fish feeding. I'd like a taste of the Mies van der Rohe meets urban prairie life.
Well, I've never been to Puerto Rico but I am in the area and I'm proficient at goldfish feeding. Even Wendel feeding too, if that were also needed.
And hey, Happy Birthday! Many, many more to you.
I will feed your fish. Having the key to your apartment will dovetail nicely with my plans to steal your Eames chair.
The only thing I know about it is that a friend once rented a scooter there with her mom and during their ride, she was stabbed and the scooter was stolen.
So my advice is don't rent a scooter.
I've only been to PR on a cruise stop on my honeymoon but my sister and friends have been and apparently El Yunque is a MUST SEE! The Bacardi tour was pretty interesting but it's a bit of a ways out from the center of San Juan. The Fort is amazing and has the best views of the ocean and city - definitely another MUST SEE!
Also, if you haven't had enough offers to live vicariously in your amazing Mies home - I work downtown as well and would gladly feed the fish. I'm well acquainted with aquatic creatures if that helps my credentials...
Happy Birthday and have a wonderful trip!
I've been to Puerto Rico 4 times, but each time was only for a day. We used to go on family scuba diving vacations to the British Virgin Islands when I was younger and, without fail, we would get stranded in Puerto Rico on our trip down and again on our trip home due to plane delays. The airline would put us up in a hotel right on the beach and we got to enjoy a few hours of Puerto Rico before heading back to the airport. Unfortunately, the only things I remember are seeing a man riding a horse down the highway and a time that a wave tried to kill me by bashing me into some rocks (when I finally got my head abover water and stood up to breathe, my bathing suit was hanging out around my waist). So, yeah, I don't think I have any tips but I do remember it as a very friendly place and the weather was great. Just keep an eye on those waves.
We enjoyed the Bacardi tour, but it's a touristy kinda thing to do. The most exciting part of that outing was the ferry ride to Coronado. The ferry was half empty on the way back and we hit some huge waves, probably created by a cruise ship or something. The ferry bounced so hard, I was probably lifted about two feet outta my seat. That gave the abuelas something to laugh about, anyway.
We had the best dinner at the Parrot Club on Calle Fortaleza in Old Town San Juan. I can still remember the dish I had and that trip was eight years ago.
Just be warned that a lot of places in San Juan can get kinda dicey after dark. Maybe not family-friendly. I wouldn't wander down any dark alleys. The gangs there don't mess around. Then again, you're used to wandering in some pretty dicey areas so it might not bother you at all.
Wow. I was going to recommend El Jibarito in Old San Juan, and someone BEAT ME TO IT. This is how good that restaurant is. One word of warning: there are small bones in the cabrito fricase, but it's too good to pass up. A tremendously satisfying and inexpensive restaurant.
I'm not signing my name since there seem tobe some Vieques fans in the comment section. I will tell you this:
I just retuned from Vieques last week. I was there for a family wedding and believe that we were treated to the finest the island had to offer. Unfortunately, the island was very disappointing. We stayed in an amazing villa on one of the only "nice" streets on the island. It was absolutely NOT cheap. The island presented as dirty and somewhat unsafe. In fact, the island, which has a population of 7K typically but 9K during peak season has had 4 homicides during the past 2 years.
Also, if money is an object: plan on taking the ferry. The reliable airlines from SJU to VQS cost approximately $100-$200 per person round trip.
Sorry to be Debby Downer but we were not impressed by Vieques.
In complete contrast, we LOVED San Juan and absolutely plan to return soon!
Been to Vieques, taken the small plane. Pretty island.
If you go, take the ferry.
I'll be here on dry (?), cement land so I'll be all over that goldfish if necessary.
We went to Vieques and San Juan for our honeymoon and it w as incredible. We felt like Vieques was our own private island--deserted beaches ripe for exploring, amazing snorkling, and random, empty monuments. We stayed in a B&B called the Passion Fruit B&B (great people, awesome homemade breakfast) in Fajardo, then took the morning ferry to Vieques. The ride was amazing. We stayed at the Hix Island House, which was incredible and felt like we were in a piece of art (a laid back, completely environmentally friendly piece of art). We stayed for four days, then took the ferry back and had a taxi take us to San Juan. It was amazing and I can't wait to go back.
I used to live in San Juan.
1. In Isla Verde (right by the airport) there is a great pizza joint called Pizza City that kids will love. Ended two years of being vegan for Pizza City. It is a great open air place where you sit at the bar and order pizza by the slice.
2. Las Cavernas is an underground set of caves that are GORGEOUS and a must see.
3. Cabo Rojo is a light house about 1.5 hrs from San Juan and the MOST GORGEOUS beach on the whole island in my opinion.
Happy belated birthday. I don't have much Puerto Rico advice because the only time I went was when our cruise ship docked (for only 6 hours!) at night in San Juan. We went to the cheezy tourist shops then poured dark rum into pepsi bottles to sneak back onto the ship. I don't think I got the best taste of Puerto Rican culture.
Hello - love your blog. My husband is from PR and we travel there every other year to visit his family. We were just there in December with our daughter who is the same age as your little boy. A few years ago, we stayed at Villas de Sotomayor (no relation, as that is our last name too) and it was terrific. It takes a while to get there because it is up in the mountains and the roads are windy and narrow as hell, but it's totally worth it. We've also been to Hacienda de la
Buena Vista, which is an old coffee plantation - very cool, with wild kevlar spinning spiders all over (the military is trying to harness this technology). Old San Juan itself is really cool - you will probably love photographing La Perla on your own, but don't bring the kids - it's not a safe area. Culebra is an hour ferry ride from Fajardo (San Juan area) and the island isn't very touristy and there are way fewer residents than Vieques (it may be busier during the month of April, though, not sure). Buy Don Q (it's not exported and it's the best), not Bacardi and have a great time!
I didnt have time to read what everyone else wrote, but I was in Puerto Rico a couple of years ago and we had a wonderful time. We did rent a car and get out of San Juan for a bit - I was not travelling with children and I am not sure how all of this will play with them, but the two days of diving and exploring were a blast.
We drove south of San Juan to visit the rainforest, El Yunque. It was beautiful and provides for as little or as much walking as you would like. Families were picnicking and playing in waterfalls. We then continued south to Ponce where we stayed for the night. Ponce is on the southern coast and the water was a bit calmer than San Juan. It is a very small very quiet town but we had good food and explored on foot. We stayed in a small B & B which was very reasonable.
The next morning we drove north on 10 to visit the Arecibo Observatory. It was featured in the movie Contact. We, of course, did not check the times close enough and it was closed when we arrived so we were not able to go inside. I have heard the new visitors’ center and the tour are incredible and it was a highlight we surely missed. The facility is run by Cornell University.
After our disappointment we continued on the northern coast back into San Juan.
We stayed in a Marriott in San Juan that was nice but not unique.
Be sure to go into the small artists shops in San Juan, they sometimes looks questionable but I was able to find a couple of treasures.
Happy belated birthday and have a wonderful adventure.
Oh, and try the local rum it is yummy!
I think this place would be right up your alley. Can be crowded at times, but so worth it in my opinion.
La Bombonera
259 Calle San Francisco
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
787-722-0658
There's a little write up here:
http://www.gourmet.com/travel/20...09/la-
bombonera
I travel there from Ann Arbor about every other month for work. there is a public beach in Fajardo called Seven Seas, and with about a 10 minute walk up a trail through some woods from the main beach are some very warm shallow pools you can lay down in. I was there a couple weeks ago and was the only person on that beach. Be prepared to be disappointed by the sand, though. I find Lake Michigan beaches to have much finer, whiter sand.
Also... Bacardi 8 is the way to go for rum. I'd recommend bringing a few bottles back from the Duty Free. Best served over ice... very smooth.
By the way... once you get away from the tourist spots, you'll think you're in a tropical Flint... except with chickens running across the street, horses and mules standing at random street corners, and no fat guy wearing a State hat with a microphone in his hand.
One last thing... the safest way to drive is like an A-Hole. Its the island way of driving, though they do it with absolutely no malice.. its amazing.
i've never been there for long, but the slide i always see in my mind's eye is a little park in a corner (?) near the ocean. bright green grass, old stone walls; and folks of all ages flying an amazing assortment of kites. if you don't see this scene, i hope your trip is still this happy!
Happy belated birthday!
I have never been there, but I would like to point you to a site we use ofter when we plan our trips: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Searc...h?
q=puerto+rico
The best thing is that you can read very current reviews of hotels, and they have an easy rating scheme... Hope you have an incredible time with beautiful memories and special moments – and that you stay healthy!
Diana from Germany
Second Rincon. It's about 1.5- 2 hrs from San Juan and is a wonderfully laid back surfer town. There are a number of inns with kitchenettes so you can save a bit on groceries. It's on the west side of the island, which is much more "Puerto Rican" (i.e. not resort hell) and is also very family friendly.
Pre-kids, we had a great vacation at the Horned Dorset Primavera, on the west coast of Puerto Rico, about an hour's ride from San Juan. At last check, they didn't allow kids under 14, though. That's part of the charm of the place. Very expensive, very good food, very private, exceptional service. Our oceanfront room had a private plunge pool on our private patio, which was awesome -- wake up, open french doors, jump into pool, naked, wait for Manuel to bring your fresh-brewed coffee at the appointed hour.
But you'll have to sneak the kids in. That might be a problem.
my husband's family is in Puerto Rico and we go down several times a year. Our FAVORITE place on the whole island is Rincon, on the west coast. It's a sleepy little surf town with a great mix of locals, expats and tourists who all intermingle and get along just fine (unlike San Juan where the line between Puerto Rican and gringo tourist is vividly drawn and it's difficult to get people in stores to pay attention to you, let alone hang out and talk with). We stay at Dos Angeles del Mar, which is a pretty little B&B (v. kid friendly) up the block from some great beaches and casual seafood joints. You'll run into some spring breakers, but they're mostly harmless, just there for the surfing.
Rent a car in San Juan and drive there. It will take two hours. If you want to spend a night in Old San Juan, I recommend El Convento. It's pricey but for one night, it's not such a big deal.
I have to look up the most recent lechon stand we discovered in December but really, you can't beat any street-side food in PR for it's flavor and awesomeness.
Email if you want more details.
I did PR a few years back, without a kid, but now that I have one I would love to take her there. And here's my input:
*Vieques is a MUST. Especially the bio bay. There's not much bioluminescence left and from what I hear it's not going to last forever. I think it's something everyone should see. Getting to Vieques is not too difficult. We took the ferry there and it sucked. The line was horrible, the trip took forever and the seas were so rough I was thrown out of my seat twice. I can't even imagine having my one year old on that boat. On the way back we took a small plane--it cost us $30 each and the flight was just 10 minutes, no waiting. There were kids on our flight, too. I will never take that ferry again.
*Eat lunch from the food carts on Luquillo Beach.
*We stayed at Casa Grande in the mountains in Utuado (http://www.hotelcasagrande.com/settings.html). It's so beautiful up there, but it's kind of a hippy place with excellent vegetarian food and daily yoga. But we ignored the no alcohol rule and snuck some in.
*Forget Bacardi. We called the number on this website (http://www.ministryofrum.com/producerdetails.php?
t=81) and toured an amazing family owned rum distillery. We were the only people there and the owners were so gracious and wonderful. And the rum is amazing.
*Avoid the Rio Camuy Cave Park. We got tickets early in the morning, but they couldn't guarantee what time we could get in to see the caves. We waited around for three hours before we said screw it and left. Would not want to repeat that with kids.
*Arecibo is easier to get in and out of, but could possibly be boring for small kids. Only you know if yours would be into it.
*Drivers in San Juan are INSANE. And even though the island looks small on a map, it takes longer than you think it should to get anywhere.
*Don't miss El Yunque. It's amazing.
And now I'm going to go cry because I'm so jealous. Have fun, you guys.
We just spent a week in Puerto Rico over New Year's! 1 days in San Juan, 1 day at El Yunque for hiking and 4 days in Vieques.
Vieques was by far the highlight - you MUST go! We flew on an 8-seater from San Juan - about 20 min and $50. Easy!
The island was magical - horses, roosters and dogs roam free, the beaches are beautiful and quiet, snorkeling is easy right from the beach. AND, there is a magical glowing bay. It's worth going for this bio bay alone. It looks like millions of fireflies in the water - they glow when you move them with your kayak - or yourself if you are swimming. Sparkly, magical, fairy-dusty amazement!
We stayed at the Hacienda Tamarindo which was lovely. Unfortunately no children under 15 allowed but it may be worth giving them a ring and asking for recommendations. Jim was INCREDIBLY helpful.
If you are into yoga the Hix Island House has outdoor classes open to everyone, everday. It also looked like a great place to stay - peaceful, surrounded by trees.
Enjoy your trip!
P.S. I hope you are not flying US AIR in and out of San Juan. It took us 2 DAYS to get home. 2 DAYS!
I just started subscribing to your blog and love it.
I was recently searching for a getaway location as well and came across something unique. This is an "exotic rainforest fruit farm". I'm not sure if it meets your criteria (kid friend, easy to get to), but I would think that once you're there it would be an adventure!
just go already.
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